BUDGET PC
Posted by kll on October 10 2020 08:30:38
recently i build a new PC for work, using the at that time new CPU
AMD Ryzen 5 3600
and got a not so cheap but relatively powerful PC.

but i see that i not use my old PC anymore, so i could throw it away or make a
UPGRADE KIT using AMD serie G CPU with a cheap but new motherboard,
to have up to date DDR4, USB3, HDMI, Sata 3, Sata 3 M2 ..
( only gamer and graphic designer need PC with graphic card / sadly i had to buy one for the 3600 CPU )
but then it would be a board what might be more expensive as the whole PC i try to build here.

Top was the
AMD AM4 RYZEN3 3200G
but suddenly not available here, but in BUDGET more the
AMD-AM4-ATHLON-3000G.



what is a UPGRADE KIT? a combination of

++ Mainboard
++ CPU
++ RAM
++ SSD M2

i made online a shopping list and drive to a CHIANG MAI computer center,
but the shop i used the last 2 years was shut down,
now i had to check at a other big computer shop:



Mainboard: AM4 GIGABYTE A320M-S2H V2


vendor und manual

CPU: AMD-AM4-ATHLON-3000G


8GB DDR4/2666 RAM PC CORSAIR VENGEANCE


SSD: WD-GREEN-SATA-M-2


for 145 Euro.


with a UPGRADE KIT you think of reuse:
* housing / steel box
* power supply
* DVD drive
* harddisk

but hier with a SSD M2 drive on main board, operating system can be included already,
and a old IDE drive can / should not be reused..
The idea is to start the old PC a last time and copy all private data
to a ( see above picture ) included 64GB USB 3 stick ( 5 years warranty ).
As the new cheap ( and slow for M2 ) SSD M2 has only 120GB and only 3 years warranty
i would not copy that data to "C" drive, just keep the USB stick in as working drive..
OK, for work with media files you might need more as 64GB,
a conventional hard drive might be needed.
Also for a new install of OS ( windows 30 .. 60GB needed ) it is better to have your data separated
and use a 120GB for it as "C" only.



WARNING!
use a grounding wrist band when risk of static discharge ( at dry air only )

do not touch the processor pins

the main board touch / carry only at the metal housing of the ports



+1 CPU
- - the cpu has a marking for pin 1 and the socket at main board too.
it is not possible to insert it wrongly..
but first you need to lift the steel lever,
place the cpu,
push down the lever to hold cpu and make a good contact pins to socket

- - the included cooler / fan has 2 metal hooks what fit in the main board plastics holders
and a black lever fix it.
there is no need to buy / use heat transfer paste as that is already glued on the downside
of the cooler in a cross grid

- - connect fan power

+2 RAM ( here 8GB ) plug into slot 1 , on the side of the power connector
- - open the side levers to the outside,
- - press down the RAM board into the socket after checking the orientation of the marking,
- - while press the board down also press the side levers in, to fix the board.

+3 the SSD M2 distance socket is already at correct position for my SSD M2 board,
- - remove the screw,
- - press the board in the socket and then down
- - fix the screw.

+4 a 16 GB USB stick with a Linux ( live/install ) or Windows OS install system
( like Zorin-OS-15.2-Education-Lite-64-bit.iso 4.5GB
or WIN 10 xx image 15.5GB )





To make that a functioning PC need more:
+ PC power: 24 pol connector to ATX and 4 pol connector to ATX 12V 8 pol

+ keyboard and mouse

+ VGA / HDMI cable to Monitor / TV

+ Ethernet cable ( to ISP router for UPDATE... )



START:
* power plug in
* power switch on
* but for start would need the housing start push button,
we just do on mainboard F_PANEL (Front Panel Header) pins
________
2 4 6 8 -
1 3 5 7 9
________
1 HD +
2 PLED +
3 HD -
4 PLED -
5 RES -
6 PW +
7 RES +
8 PW -
9 nc
10 missing
for start we must connect 6 and 8, like with a screwdriver / see the red line in photo




with the first start ( on old and later a new Power supply )
i try to boot a ZORIN linux live/install USB stick and i got very bad error messages
about timeout on cpu cores???
what makes me go back to the shop.
there we test a windows install USB stick and it worked fine...
so , possibly a other board/cpu what does not work with linux?



anyhow i changed my mind and instead use it as upgrade of a old PC i buy some new (not to cheap ) stuff:
* box
* power supply
* keyboard mouse combo
* USB WIFI dual band
* HDMI cable 3m

what was a add 100 euro.



connect HDMI to a 'TCL 43" 4k' TV ( 250euro more, but my kid had no TV or Monitor anyhow )

back panel connect:
HDMI, USB WIFI, USB3 64GB stick, USB keyboard, USB mouse

the front / top panel has a start button with LED and USB3 port.

the top has a removable ( like for cleaning ) air filter mat

so keep that PC top clean and free for cooling air intake.
that is a very good design! i lamented about for years that it is stupid to suck in dirty air
( like when the PC is standing on the floor ) and have the powersupply and cpu cooler blocked with it.


browserbench.org Speedometer2.0/ gives me a 84 while my work PC shows not much more,

but the userbenchmark shows:
cpu benchmark toolUserBenchmarks: Game 7%, Desk 55%, Work 6%
CPU: AMD Athlon 3000G - 53.6%
GPU: AMD Radeon Vega 3 Graphics - 4.4%
SSD: WDC WDS120G2G0B-00EPW0 120GB - 43.9%
USB: SanDisk Ultra USB 3.0 64GB - 40.4%
RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 2666 C16 1x8GB - 40.5%
MBD: Gigabyte GA-A320M-S2H V2-CF




on that windows i only add installed LiberOffice
and erased the MS Office and One Drive links,
also i recommend to use google online tools ( and so have your work on the mobile available too ).